Siena - Just barely in time for Il Palio

Siena's Il Campo

Getting ready for the Palio

Karin explaining the Palio to us

At one of the contrada's museum's

Inside the Duomo in Siena

We arrived in Siena around the time of the Palio -- not exactly during the weekend of, but just when they started all the pomp and circumstance. The contrade (17 neighborhoods of Siena) were in their funky medieval costumes parading around town -- it was enlightening and humourous at the same time. I think this is something that only the Sienese really get into, because when we were atually watching the Palio on TV (in Rome) the Romans could care less. It's definitely a Sienese thing. I've asked my other Italian friends... "they're like the Palio? Huh? All that excitement over a 1-2 minute horserace?" They don't get it either.

Anyway, but Italy is built on a lot of bizarre customs and the Palio, which is held twice in the summer. It's held twice because the track (the Campo) can't hold all 17 horses -- it's already dangerous as it is. Karin told us how there is so much bribery, corruption, and underhanded dealing that sometimes the winner may be predetermined before the race even begins. . . it's so crazy. The politics of this race -- all to win il Palio (a banner). And they're quite superstitutious. They parade the jockey (they are professional jockeys) and the horse through the churches (each neighborhood has its own church -- and during the Palio you will stay away from your rival neighborhood).

And before the race, the church priest will bless the jockey and the horse. No kidding. All in the name of tradition, I guess. Hmmnh. (No comment.) What happens if people intermarry from different contrade? During the Palio do they remain loyal to their contrada and what of their children, if they have any, are they part of the contrada that they are brought up in or part of the contrada of the father (if I understood correctly). It's very tricky period of time in Siena.